Stray dogs and rooftop camping
Balkans cycling trip, Days 28-29 2-3 August 2017: Qeparo – Ksamil A short day’s cyling along the picturesque Albanian Riviera and coffee stops in some lovely villages on the way. Then another day by the sea – perhaps we’re getting lazy? Rooftop camping in Ksamil is highly recommended! Distance: 52 km Total distance: 1373 km…
Forgotten roads and moonlike dust
Balkans cycling trip, Day 21 26 July 2017: Ura Vajgurorë – Greshicë My bicycle is finally repaired properly and after a short stop in historical Berat we continue south across the mountains. The route offers a row of surprises, good and bad, as we learn to ride our bikes on roads with potholes and huge stones covered…
Rural idyll and smell of oil
Balkans cycling trip, Days 19-20 24-25 July 2017: Golem – Ura Vajgurore More visits to repair shops, donkeys, lovely lakes and delicious cakes. A long and tiring but also relaxing journey from the bustling tourist resorts and industrial cities to Central Albania’s farming country with a drop of oil. Distance: 102 + 10 km Total…
Back streets and parasols
Balkans cycling trip, Day 18 23 July 2017: Vorë – Golem A light half-day ride to the crammed seaside resort Golem just south of Durres. We stop in a sleepy town where the red star is still a central element of the main square, survive the deadly holes on the road and marvel at the…
Goats and bridges
Day 16 (21 July): Shengjin – Ulez Distance: 50 km Total distance: 917 km The last night in Shengjin I checked the map and our route once again and I noticed that the road we wanted to take was not just very low category (meaning that it could easily be a gravel road) but it…
Hairpin bends and helpful priests
Day 13 (18 July): Vermosh – Shkoder Distance: 89 km Total distance: 782 km After a wuthering day of doing practically nothing, we were all ready to cross the mountains although we knew it wouldn’t be an easy ride. Two passes were ahead of us. The first one, 1355 m over sea level, seemed to…
Shivering and lazing
Balkans Cycling Trip, Day 11 Just a cold, rainy day when we all we did was wait for the sun to appear from behind the clouds. 16th July 2017: Plav by the lake Distance: 0 km Total distance: 658 km This was the first day the bikes didn’t move a metre; they stayed chained to…
Technical problems and a new country
Balkans Cycling Trip, Day 9 We follow rivers all day and enter Montenegro. Some serious technical problems make us a little worried and then it seems impossible to find a suitable place for camping in the narrow valley. But in the end we can enjoy the hospitality (and strawberries) of a Montenegrin family. 14 July…
A near miss and friendly neighbours
Balkans Cycling Trip, day 8 We climb the first serious hills of our trip in Central Serbia and I nearly get hit by a careless driver. Breathtaking views of artificial lakes and another heartwarming experience with the friendly Serbs 13rd July 2017: Tatinac – Bistrica (Nova Varos) Distance: 85 km Total distance: 505 km The…
Uphill struggle and proper beds
Balkans cyling trip, Day 5 10 July 2017: Gornja Vranjska – Valjevo Distance: 62 km Total distance: 315 km We slept surprisingly well by the cornfield though we were a bit afraid that we’d be woken up by a tractor in the morning. That didn’t happen but just as I was standing outside the tent…